Beach and Mountains in Panama (by Jenni)

IMG_1392 2.A.O.beach

We decided to head to Coiba National Park after talking with some folks in Casco Viejo.  It is on the Pacific side of Panama and pretty much no tourists go there.  We rented a car in Panama City and headed to the beach!  Of course, we got lost a couple of times along the way.  But, people were very nice when we asked for directions in our broken Spanish.  We ended up getting to Santa Catalina well after dark.  Santa Catalina is the closest town to depart from to get to Coiba.  While driving, we were a bit concerned because other drivers seem to straddle the yellow line all of the time.  Corey soon figured out why.  Even though it was pretty dark out, no lights anywhere to be found, there were people on either side of the road on horses or walking on this two-lane highway.  It is pretty amazing to be somewhere and see people relying on horses for transportation.  We couldn’t believe we were anywhere near a beach because it remained hilly and very much like a jungle.

We stayed at a very sweet little place called Sherrley’s Cabins.  We didn’t really have anything to make breakfast with the morning after we arrived, so while Corey went to the store, the kids and I went to the beach.  I need to mention again that tourists don’t really know about this place yet. So, it was like we were on a private beach.  We were the only people there.  At first, I thought it was really muddy, which seemed weird for a beach.  Then, I realized that it is a black sand beach!  When we went back to the beach late in the day, I walked over to check out some huge rocks that create a mass that juts out into the ocean and saw that all of the rocks are lava.  Must be why the beach is black sand.  The sand is super fine and crazy beautiful.  We saw hundreds of little vibrant red crabs running around on this black sand.  It was quite a gift.

Sherrley, who owns Sherrley’s Cabins, is very, very sweet.  We had not prearranged anything.  And, she knows everybody here.  So, she got a hold of someone who took Audrey and Oliver horseback riding on the beach and into the jungle.  And, she arranged for someone to take us snorkeling at Coiba.


Coiba is a protected island and the Smithsonian runs a research center there.  We went snorkeling around an island that was inhabited by hundreds (if not thousands) of hermit crabs.  On the way there, Audrey and everyone else in the boat, except me, Corey and Oliver, saw a humpback whale.

The snorkeling was amazing!  We saw so many different beautiful marine animals.  We got to see hawkbill sea turtles.  There are many endangered species that make Coiba their home.  We saw monkeys, iguanas, and various birds on the island where we had lunch.  We had a lovely close encounter with a howler monkey when hiking up a trail to the top of a hill.  The monkey had a blond face and black body.  It was very curious about us.  As we moved on, Audrey stayed behind with our snorkeling guide.  She told us that the guide held his hand out to the monkey and the monkey held the guide’s hand a moment and then started petting it.  The monkey then licked the guide’s hand and ran off.

On the way to our next snorkel destination, we saw bottle-nosed dolphin and a baby and mama humpback whale.  We also saw some kind of sea turtles mating (they were not hawkbills; I will need to do a little research to figure out what kind of turtle they were).  We knew they were mating because Audrey had read about it in our Panama book and informed us all about it.

On our way back to Santa Catalina, we saw humpback whales breaching in the distance.  We got pretty close to them and they stopped breaching, but continued swimming for a bit.  I estimate that one blow-hole spray went at least 15 feet into the air.

After our time at the beach, we headed up to the mountains. Wow!  What a difference it makes to be in the mountains.  The weather is so much more comfortable.

In Bouquete, we stayed in a hostel called Refugio del Rio.  We really loved it.  It is very artsy and genuine.  The whole place was special. They had a room where the walls were made of colorful wine bottles. A lot of the furniture was made out of wooden palates. One night, they had homemade pizza and one of the guests gave a clown/juggling performance. Overall, quite a day as we had spent much of it searching for a “lost waterfalls” trail, finding it locked and closed, and then hiking to another falls.


On our second day in Bouquete, we had a private (not by design) tour of Finca Dos Jefes (Farm with Two Bosses).  We learned the history of coffee.  We started to tour by having a tea made from the skin from the coffee bean.  It was very sweet even though no sweetener had been added. We got to see the whole process of growing and drying coffee beans.  We ate some ripe “coffee cherries” right off the plant.  Guess what…they are sweet and yummy!  We learned all about coffee tasting.  A coffee farm that neighbors the farm we visited has earned the award for having the best coffee ever in the whole world.  At the end of our tour, we all tasted coffee.  Then…we got to roast coffee beans!  Audrey and Oliver both decided that they want to have a coffee farm.  Problem is, coffee can only be grown in the tropics.


12 thoughts on “Beach and Mountains in Panama (by Jenni)

    1. Thanks for checking out our site. We have had really limited access while on San Cristobal, but plan to catch up on our updates soon. I think there may be market for coffee skin tea and ‘cherries’!


      1. Thanks, Sue. We’re collecting lots of great stories, like, most recently, the madcap drivers of the three-wheeled “motokars” in Iquitos, where we are now. These guys (and they are nearly all guys) make those “down the middle of the narrow road” drivers in Panama look like geriatrics on sedatives. We’ll have to get some new blogs up about the verdant jungle of the Amazon basin and the concrete jungle of Iquitos. Happy to see you checked out the blog. Take Care.


  1. Hi Jenni and Corey. Please send news about your safety in light of the recent earthquake in Nepal with shakes to India. Thinking of you and worrying a little.


    1. Thanks for the note, Sue. We are still in Mauritius, but planning to go in a few days to Mumbai, then after a few days there, head to Nepal. Of course we are monitoring things as closely as we can, and trying to reach people in Nepal to see if conditions will permit us to carry on to our volunteer position in Pokhara, or possibly do something to help in KTM.


      1. Oh thanks Corey and jenni I trust you will use good care and judgment for yourselves. Travel safe and please keep in touch once you arrive Sue



    1. Sue, thanks for checking in. We were on day one of a four day trek and felt tremors from the second quake. We are back in Pokhara now, which again emerged unscathed, although people here felt it. More soon.


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