Jungle Fever (by Jenni)

Day one in the Amazon Jungle in Peru:  WOW. Really wow! This is incredible! It is really hot and humid here and the mosquitoes remind me of that “OFF” commercial from when I was a kid. The one where a guy puts his hand and arm into a clear box full of mosquitoes. But, it is also simply amazing. There is so much life here.

Audrey holding a poison dart frog.
Audrey holding a poison dart frog.

What a day! Today, we saw (Audrey and Oliver held) poison dart frogs.Audrey and Oliver both put their hands into a termite nest to rub the swarming termites together to use as insect repellant.

Audrey's hand in a termite nest
Audrey’s hand in a termite nest

Our guide, Dustin, cleared an area in the jungle so that Audrey and Oliver could swing on vines. They both climbed through a giant fallen hollowed tree used as a bat cave (including vampire bats). We saw gorgeous beetles and butterflies and birds. Then, on our way back from terra ferma (solid ground), a couple of wooly monkeys climbed into our boat to get some snacks. They are wild, but used to getting snacks from the boat. They climbed on us while they ate.  Just beautiful.

We are all wet all over. But, very excited and happy!

Jenni with a monkey on her lap
Jenni with a monkey on her lap

Day 2:  After dinner last night, we took a “night hike”. It was so crazy. The jungle is difficult to negotiate in daylight. In the dark, we were quite lucky to get back with only one incident where Oliver stepped into a hole and water gushed into his rubber boots.

On the hike, we saw a really beautiful large tree frog. We also saw several different types and sizes of tarantulas.

Audrey holding an adolescent tarantula on our night hike
Audrey holding an adolescent tarantula on our night hike

But the most fabulous thing we saw was something that Oliver has been talking about for over a year now…a wandering spider. It is the most deadly spider in the world; it is both poisonous and venomous. Oliver had wanted us to go to Brazil on this trip specifically to see a wandering spider because they are most commonly found there. The spider we saw was about the size of my hand. Our guide stimulated it with a twig and it sprayed poison out a few inches. Not everybody gets to see that!

This morning we took a boat trip and Corey and the kids swam with the pink dolphins. The commotion in the water drew curious grey dolphins to join them. The dolphins never got closer than about 30 feet to them. But the grey ones were jumping. It was pretty cool.

On the boat to and from the dolphins, we saw all kinds of birds again. I forgot to mention that we saw flocks of parrots in flight yesterday. We did today too. We also saw 2 macaws in flight and 2 toucans in flight. We never would have recognized the macaws or toucans if our guides hadn’t told us what they were. They were not close enough for us to see their colors.

We also saw pigmy marmosets (the smallest primates in the world) and a couple of 3-toed sloths.

Our room at the jungle lodge
Our room at the jungle lodge

Our room is beautiful, in a rustic way. Our beds have canopies to keep the mosquitoes out at night. The food is wonderful. We had a picnic lunch during our outing yesterday. It included table cloth, plates, flatware, the whole works. The guides built a fire and made a stewed chicken dish with rice and veggies. They also had a couple of different kinds of salads and fruit for us.

Piranha for dinner!
Piranha for dinner!

Day 3:  This morning we went fishing. We used something akin to a cane-pole. They use pieces of beef for bait and when that ran out, they cut up a small piranha we had caught and used that. We all caught piranha. After I caught a piranha, I stopped fishing and just helped the kids. In addition to piranha, Oliver caught a large lisa-fish. Audrey caught the biggest fish, a large peacock bass. Corey caught the most impressive fish (as far as I am concerned), a barracuda. The teeth on that thing make the piranha look like sissies. Oliver helped clean the fish (by that time they were really dead; so, he wasn’t upset).  The whole time we were fishing, Audrey and Oliver talked about how much they love fishing with their Granddad.

IMG_2335
Ooooooh! . . . Baracuda!

We had a zip-line adventure yesterday that turned out to be good for wild life viewing. We saw another pigmy marmoset and 3 owl monkeys. Amazingly, when we were up at the top of the canopy, a couple of blue and gold macaws flew right past us and landed in a tree nearby. This time, we could see their colors well, flashing brilliantly as they cruised above the canopy.

Last night, one of the staff here caught a juvenile boa constrictor in the ceiling of the game room (the place Oliver plays foosball everyday!). So, we all got to touch it. He would straighten it out and then it would coil back up around his hand. It was about 2 1/2 feet long.

Today is the first day of real sun and it is blazing hot! We are as wet from sweat as we have been from the rain. Who ever thought that I would be hoping it rained? It would sure cool things off though.

Day 5:  Jungle Fever – for real!  I spent most of yesterday and today in bed with one of the highest fevers I have ever had.  I was going to volunteer at a village clinic but couldn’t because I was sick with a stomach flu.

Audrey, Oliver and Corey spent yesterday morning fishing again. In the afternoon, Corey and Oliver went with our guide to collect items from the jungle to make a blow-gun, darts, spears, and a bow and arrow. They also had a small lesson on plants. They brought back some iodine from the iodine tree to treat a fungal skin infection that Audrey has gotten. And, they brought back a pod of fresh paprika. Fresh paprika is moist and has many uses other than cooking. While I was taking a fever-induced nap, Oliver and Audrey painted my fingernails and toenails with it.  It looked like my fingers and toes were bleeding.   Audrey used the paprika as lip balm while Oliver used it as war paint.

Oliver with paprika war paint
Oliver with paprika war paint
Oliver working on his blow-dart gun
Oliver working on his blow-dart gun

Day 7:  We are now up river from the lodge, staying at the Amazon Research Center (ARC). It is more remote here (hard to imagine more remote than where we were!)

Yesterday morning, before we left the lodge, we went to the craft market at the village nearby. All of the goods are made by hand with natural materials found in the jungle. You wouldn’t believe how colorful and beautiful the jewelry and baskets made from palm leaves and seeds are. As soon as we were getting ready to leave, they all packed up their goods. Had I realized that the market was just for us (and the other 4 people staying at the lodge), I would have made more purchases. The prices were unbelievable! If we get that chance again, I will make better use of it.

Jenni and Corey canoeing in the jungle
Jenni and Corey canoeing in the jungle

We had an afternoon canoeing trip further up the river yesterday after we arrived at the ARC. It was the first time either Oliver or Audrey had been canoeing. It was pretty funny.  Another guide had to join us so we could actually make it away from the dock. We have been traveling everywhere by river, in small motor boats; but, it was very different to travel so quietly and slowly, like the ribeñeros (the villagers who live along the river). These low slung canoes, carved from a single log, barely rise above their water line, and seem to hold only two people. But we saw them carrying families — very well balanced families with ample reserves of core strength!

This morning, we did a 6am hike to see monkeys. They are most active in the morning. We saw a group of saddleback tamarin monkeys. After breakfast, we canoed down river to a couple of lakes, including a fairly recently formed ox bow lake (still barely in contact with the river it has broken from) that we canoed into and out of though dense bushes. We saw monkeys, blue and yellow macaws, and toucans.

We have a tree full of yellow-rumped caciques and oropendolas right outside our room. Our room is made of screen instead of walls; so we can see and hear them very well. We are trying to make a recording of the oropendola call. It is one of our favorite jungle sounds. It sounds like water dropping. You should try to google oropendola call to see if you can hear it!

Oliver spears a fish
Oliver spears a fish

Day 9:  The spear fishing yesterday evening was a big hit with Oliver and Corey. Not so much with Audrey. And, I just went along for the ride. We are planning a jungle survival camping trip tomorrow.  After exploring options for getting food from the jungle, our guide decided that spear fishing would be the easiest. I must admit that I was skeptical that spear fishing would be easy. But, I was wrong. In case you don’t know (I sure didn’t), you go spear fishing at night, because that is when the fish are sleeping. We were walking around in shallow water wearing high rubber boots. We would shine a flashlight into the water, see a fish and spear it.

Audrey was the first one to get a fish. She felt terrible afterwards saying that it wasn’t fair, the poor fish was asleep. So, she didn’t fish any more after that. Oliver however, loved it. Corey got a couple of fish, but the night belonged to Oliver. Our guide got what we estimate to be a 5 lb peacock bass. That was pretty awesome.

Audrey, Jenni, Oliver and Dustin (our guide) hiking in the jungle
Audrey, Jenni, Oliver and Dustin (our guide) hiking in the jungle

T

Today, we had a big adventure that pushed the kids to their limit. We took about a 20 minute boat ride to the start of a hike up to a lake. About 30 minutes into the hike, both kids were dragging and saying they were too tired to go on. The hike was arduous to say the least. I believe doing anything in 100 degree weather and 100% humidity would be very difficult. But, add in the constant onslaught of mosquitoes, hiking in rubber boots in deep mud, much of the time balancing on slippery logs, for 2 hours just to get to the lake, and you have the stuff to begin a real adventure. We did stop along the way for Corey and Oliver to have a little snack of grubs!

The big draw for this hike is that hoatzins hang out there. The hoatzin is a prehistoric bird that is related to the cuckoo. It is considered an arboreal cow because it feeds on leaves which are then digested in 2 stomachs. When we arrived at the lake, I swear it seemed like they were there for us like a welcoming party. There were several of them sitting low in a tree right next to where our trail met the lake. Unfortunately, Corey was a bit behind the rest of us (and had the camera) and didn’t get as good of a view as the rest of us because the birds moved further up into the tree by the time he joined us.

Jenni and Audrey on the raft
Jenni and Audrey on the raft

At the lake, Oliver began collecting sticks to make a raft. Our guide told him that he was using the wrong kind of sticks. So, he took Oliver and cut down some balsa trees. Then, they made a little raft. Dustin thought it unsafe for Oliver to be out on the lake alone (there is a mama caiman living there). So, we made a bigger raft that could support the weight of an adult along with a child. We did a little rafting. I ended up losing my balance and falling in. Imagine the hike I have described above in wet clothes, especially the socks in the rubber boots! Cause, I had to do the whole hike back that way. By the time we were going back to the boat, we had missed lunch. We were all pretty wiped out. Audrey and Oliver were exhausted, but did a great job. The boat ride back was delightfully breezy and the chef had our lunch ready for us as soon as we washed our hands.

Exhausted after the hike!
Exhausted after the hike!

Day 11:  Today is the official start of the rainy season here. The “dry” season ended yesterday with one of the biggest deluges I have ever witnessed. So, we spent the day at the Research Center watching the rain. It cooled the temperature by about 25 degrees and was quite pleasant. But, we decided not to camp in the bucket loads of rain.

We set out on a hike at 6am this morning and saw some more tamarin monkeys. We saw blue and yellow macaws at pretty close range. We also saw leaches and an olive whip-snake (4-5 feet long).

We went canoeing before lunch. It started raining again. So, we had a blast canoeing in the rain. Finally, the rain has stopped and Corey, Audrey and Oliver have set off with 2 guides for a night of survival camping. Being a vegetarian, I have no interest in surviving by catching and roasting frogs, eating grubs, or spear fishing; and fruit is not plentiful this time of year.

Our last day in the jungle:  They survived!!  Survival camping in the amazon jungle was exciting.  The guides taught them how to build their own shelter.  They enjoyed a dinner of fresh grilled fish (spear-caught) and plantains.  Unfortunately, ants were able to get into their tents and they all suffered significant ant bites.  They made it back to the ARC for breakfast.

Our time in the jungle was truly incredible.  It was beautiful beyond description.  We learned so much about so many things.  One of the most interesting lessons we learned has to do with dangerous and deadly creatures.  All they really want to do is live their lives.  They aren’t interested in us at all.  It takes persistant provocation to illicit a dangerous or deadly response.  However, it is best to be aware of what is going on around you.  I never want to be in the jungle without a seasoned guide!

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s